Itinerary

19^th June – Day 1

We begin our trek around  noon at an altitude of 7500 ft. The walk is absolutely beautiful and our pace is slow to assist with acclimatization. Along the way we may see fresh elephant dung! Fortunately these elephants are very elusive!

An hour or so after starting the climb, we stop for lunch.  The rest of the climb is mildly strenuous at times but the hills are short. Some of the downhill stretches are quite steep so we use our poles to prevent us from slipping and sliding!

We continue to climb slowly and reach our camp about 2 hours after our lunch stop.

Our camp is in the montane forest at 8,764 ft.  Tonight we will have about an hour or so before dinner, so we have some time to get organized for the evening.

We must eat well tonight. At the higher altitudes we may lose appetite so these first few days are important for building up energy reserves. We must also drink at least another litre of water before going to bed.

Darkness comes early in the forest and the clear sounds of the night remind us that we are far away from home. We are finally camping on the slopes of Kilimanjaro!

20^th June – Day 2

Breakfast is at 7:30 and we start our walk at 8:30am. The hike from the Forest Camp to our lunch stop is easy. After lunch, we will hike mostly uphill for long steep stretches until we arrive at the Shira Ridge. The last hour will be an easy stroll across the plateau. We start off with a short steep climb. In the early morning the colobus monkeys are noisy but they are hard to spot! After about 2 hours we stop for a quick snack— we eat energy food such as peanuts and chocolate bars.

In the open landscape we can now see the trail ahead as it winds along the ridges of Shira. It is clear that we have some hiking to do before this day is over!  About 3 hours after leaving Forest Camp, we will reach the top of a hill where we can see our lunch stop in the clearing below.

The downhill walk is pleasant and we increase our pace a bit. After lunch, we will hike mostly uphill along the Shira ridges.

We reach our lunch stop around noon. It is time to kick back and enjoy the beautiful surroundings. This is another opportunity to eat and drink as much as we can.

After lunch we immediately start a very steep hike for about 30 minutes, and then we follow one ridge after another—hiking higher and higher as we get closer to the upper slopes of Shira.

Around 2:30pm we reach the high-point of the day and turn west for an easy 20-minute walk to the western edge of Shira. Suddenly, on the right, we see Kibo for the first time!

To the north and north-west, we see the Shira Plateau and we take a short rest and photo opportunity before we hike the final stretch across the plateau to Shira 1 Camp at 11,529 ft. We reach camp before 4pm. In the late afternoon the clouds often clear away and we are treated with a magnificent view of the Western Breach in the distance!

21^st June – Day 3

Breakfast is served at 8:00 and we start our walk before 9:00am. Today’s hike is short with just one steep section at the end of the trek. The Shira Plateau is truly beautiful with interesting plants, rock formations and several water streams. When we wake up this morning we will see the sun rise behind Kibo, and this magnificent view will be in front of us all day. We start with a very short climb before the trail flattens out for a very pleasant walk. To our right, we can see the Shira Cathedral and behind us the Shira Ridge will slowly fade into the distance. We are hiking at an altitude of 11,500 ft but most climbers have no problems with this part of the trek.  Early on in the day we cross a refreshing stream, reminding us to stop frequently and enjoy the beautiful scenery. Then it’s a short uphill walk to a section that reminds us of the heath zone of yesterday. We are now in an area well-known for eland and buffalo, so we look for fresh tracks. Soon we cross back into moorland and the lava ridges of Kilimanjaro now appear closer in front of us. Our next camp is on top of the first major ridge, but we still have another 2 hours to go! On the left, we follow a stream with many caves. In the old days, this was lion country and the caves were lion hideaways. We also see a 4×4 track used by the rescue vehicles. Around noon we reach the lower areas of a steep ridge. On our right we can hear the peaceful sound of a fast-flowing stream.  From the top of the ridge the views are spectacular! To the north, we see the Western Breach, and to the south we can see the Shira Ridge where we left from this morning. It is 1pm and we are at Fischer Camp, so named in memory of the guide who died on Everest. We are at 12,864 ft. We eat a late lunch and visit the Fischer memorial before taking a shower and a well-earned rest. At this height some climbers begin to experience mild AMS headaches. It is crucial to drink plenty of water and to eat well.

22^nd June – Day 4

Breakfast is served at 8:00 and we start our walk before 9:00am. Today’s hike to a camp just west of Lava Tower is short, but it’s steeper than yesterday with at least 2 long uphill sections. The day starts with a short steep section. Due to the altitude, some climbers will feel less energetic than yesterday! It is time for energy drinks and bars. As the sun rises higher, the views are stunning. Looking towards Kibo we can see the trail ahead crossing several ridges and valleys. Behind us, the Shira Ridge, Shira 1 and Fischer Camps are fading in the distance. After an hour or so, Mount Meru appears in the distance. We get an idea of how far away we are from Arusha! After the initial few ridges, the scenery starts to change. We are leaving the moorland and are now in the alpine zone. These are inhospitable conditions where it freezes every night. Plant life is reduced to mosses, lichens and a few everlasting flowers. The trail can now get very dusty and we spread out a bit to avoid each other’s dust! Wet bandanas and wet wipes come in handy to keep our faces clean! The first of a few long uphill stretches awaits us about an hour into the trek. As we slowly make our way uphill, we can see the Machame route camp sites.  The long uphill hike continues to a point where our trail meets up with the Machame route. Here we take a break while watching many large groups walk by. It is strange to see so many other climbers. Until now we basically had the mountain to ourselves! After the break, we follow the convoy of trekkers and porters to Lava Tower. Along the way, we climb down a steep gap in the rocks before we reach the final uphill stretch of the day. The last uphill walk is long and seemingly never-ending! But then we see the recognizable shape of the Lava Tower and we are only a few hundred yards away from our camp.

We reach Sheffield Camp around 1:15pm. Today’s climb was the hardest so far due to the altitude of 14,940 ft. Some climbers are starting to lose appetite. We must focus on eating and drinking as much as we can! After lunch it’s time for a shower and a nap. Tomorrow is a rest day to help with acclimatization!

23^rd June – Day 5

Acclimatization Day!

Today we dry out our clothes and we focus on our bodies.

Those who still suffer from mild AMS should go on a 2-hour acclimatization hike to higher ground and back. Regular headache pills normally relieve the mild throbbing symptoms. Climbing to the top of Lava Tower (30 minutes) is a good way to gain altitude. But be careful since there is some scrambling involved.

Those who feel tired should rest and try to restore energy with energy drinks and food.

Either way, we listen to our bodies and we discuss our concerns with the guides. They will suggest various remedies (such as Diamox) depending on the situation. Drink plenty of water!

24^th June – Day 6

Today is a very short but very steep climb. We depart at 10am and reach Lava Tower after only 35 minutes. After Lava Tower, we cross a small stream and then it’s a hour-long steep uphill trek on loose scree (gravel). The views from the top of this ridge are amazing. Looking back we see the Sheffield Camp and our trail. We are now in the vicinity of the Great Barranco to our right. In front of us, we face another steep climb to a series of rocks. This section takes about an hour as our pace has slowed down to allow for the gains in altitude. Above to our left are the edges of the melting Arrow Glacier. The scramble section at the top of the ridge poses no problems. Once on top of the rocks, we face a short but steep trek over loose stones. We are careful not to twist an ankle. We reach Arrow Glacier Camp at around 12:15pm in time for lunch. This camp is at 15,978 ft and we can feel the cold. This is no place to lounge outside and we retire to the mess tent or our own tents to warm up. Fog or icy rain is common in the early afternoon and visibility is poor so we normally postpone picture taking until early evening when it clears up and the Western Breach becomes visible high above us. We are 1 night away from our biggest challenge—the Western Breach! We normally do a rescue drill this afternoon. We are at a serious height and everybody (including the porters) must understand how our rescue equipment works.

25^th June – Day 7

For many, this is the day they’ve been thinking about.  We don’t recommend climbing the Breach at night – there is a danger of falling rocks but experienced guides know how to best avoid the unstable areas. It will be a steep climb at altitude but the views are spectacular.  We zig-zag our way up the Breach to slow down our ascent and to negate the steepness. Breakfast is served at 5:00am and we start our walk at 5:30am. It is safer to climb the Breach in the early morning while the ground is still frozen. The first part is gentle as we step carefully over loose boulders. Looking back, we can see the porters in the distance at our Arrow Glacier camp. On clear mornings we can see the Lava Tower and even the Shira Ridge—we can almost trace our path to this point! Within the first hour we reach an easy scrambling section after which we can see the Barranco Wall and camp site in the distance on the left. We stick to the rocky path and try to reach the safety of the rock rib as quickly as we can, which we then follow all the way to the lunch spot. The walk is very steep but in general it is a comfortable slow hike to the ridge. We rest often to enjoy the stunning views below and above us. Energy drinks and snacks are now in high demand! The magnificent rock formations are a bit unstable and our guides will keep a watchful eye on our surroundings. There are 4 scrambling sections on this route. The second one is a giant stair case. The reward is waiting at the top of the stairs —a 30-minute lunch break at about noon. Many climbers are surprised to learn that the crater rim is only 90 minutes away! Luckily the scrambling part is over. What’s left is a very steep hike to the rim— made more complicated by the thin air. We have to dig deep here but the excitement of reaching the rim is pushing us upwards. And at 1pm then we are there! On our left, we see the Northern Ice field and on our right, the Furtwangler glacier. We begin a 30-minute walk past the glacier to the foot of Uhuru Peak—the site of our Crater Camp at 18,500 ft! We have reached the snows of Kilimanjaro! It is about 2pm and some of us will head straight to the tents to relax before lunch. Others may walk to the glacier to touch it. After lunch a few tough souls may walk to the actual crater and back — a 90 min hike. We have come a long way and have mastered the Western Breach!

26^th June – Day 8

Summit day!

We have only 800 feet to go but it won’t be easy. Spare a thought for the hikers on other routes who started their summit attempts at midnight! It will take about one-and-a-half hours to reach Uhuru Peak. We will not be alone – others have been arriving since 6am. Soon we will be able to have a photo opportunity next to the famous posted sign at the top.

But we must be prepared for an aftershock – the way down is a steep, rigorous route via Stella Point down the mountain to Barafu where we will stop for lunch. On the way down we may pass other trekkers who are still on the way up!

Many hikers are unprepared for this 4-hour ordeal down the slippery slope of scree.  At Barafu we can take a good rest before tackling the rest of the way down. It is time to relax and think about our experiences of the past week. The way down to Mweka camp is a comfortable walk but rather dusty.

Overnight at Mweka camp at 10,000 feet

27^th June – Day 9

Breakfast is served at 8:00 and we depart at 9:00am.

Today is a short but steep downhill walk through the rainforest to the park gate. When it rains, the trail is muddy and very slippery. We use our poles to prevent knee or ankle injuries.

There are many other climbers on this trail and plenty of stories and experiences to share. It is noisy all the way to the gate—arrival at noon! At the gate, we are treated with a final feast of fruits and drinks, and an opportunity to buy a few souvenirs! Then we sign the register and gather for the presentation of our climbing certificates by our guides, followed by a short tipping ceremony.